from€1,045£899
Norway
Lofoten Islands Hiking
Arctic peaks, white beaches and fishermen's cabins — Norway without the Norwegian bill.
- 7 days
- Max 10
- Difficulty 3/5
- Shared rorbu cabins & hostel
- Duration
- 8 days
- Group size
- Max 10
- Difficulty
- Sleeps
- Family guesthouses
- Season
- June to early October
- Start / end
- Tirana → Tirana
- Per day
- €93£81
Overview
What this trip is
The Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna) are what the Alps might have looked like a century ago: 2,500 m limestone peaks, shepherds' summer villages, and valleys that only got roads in the last few years.
We walk the best stages of the cross-border Peaks of the Balkans trail — the Valbona Pass, the Theth valley and the high crossing into Montenegro — staying with families in stone farmhouses where dinner is whatever came out of the garden, plus raki.
It's naturally thrifty. Your money lands in the hands of the people who cook your food and carry your bag, and there's honestly nothing up here to overspend on.
Highlights
- The Lake Koman ferry — a fjord-like canyon voyage into the mountains
- Valbona Pass (1,795 m), the classic day of the Albanian Alps
- Theth: the lock-in tower, Grunas waterfall and the Blue Eye pool
- Crossing the Pejë Pass on foot into Montenegro, and the Grebaje valley's Karanfili spires
Day by day
Itinerary
Day 1Tirana to Shkodër
Meet in Tirana at midday and transfer to lakeside Shkodër. Evening walk to Rozafa castle and briefing.
Day 2Lake Koman to Valbona6 km · ↑ 150 m · ↓ 150 m
Early start for the Koman ferry, then by road up the Valbona valley. Afternoon leg-stretch along the river.
Day 3Valbona Pass to Theth17 km · ↑ 1,000 m · ↓ 1,150 m
The big one: up through beech forest to the pass, with views across half the range, then a long descent into Theth. Horses carry main bags.
Day 4Theth and the Blue Eye12 km · ↑ 300 m · ↓ 450 m
An easier day: down-valley to Grunas waterfall and canyon, on to the Blue Eye of Kaprre for a (very) cold swim, and back by 4x4.
Day 5Over the Pejë Pass into Montenegro21 km · ↑ 1,050 m · ↓ 800 m
Up the head of the Theth valley past old border bunkers to Qafa e Pejës (1,710 m), then down the long Ropojana valley to Vusanje. Border crossing permits arranged.
Day 6Grebaje and Volušnica10 km · ↑ 750 m · ↓ 750 m
Short transfer to the Grebaje valley and a loop over Volušnica (1,879 m), face to face with the Karanfili towers. Night near Gusinje.
Day 7Return to Albania
Scenic drive via Plav and the Vermosh border back to Shkodër; on to Tirana for a last night and a farewell dinner (own expense).
Day 8Depart
Trip ends after breakfast.
The deal
What’s included, and what isn’t
Included
- Local English-speaking mountain guide throughout
- 7 nights: family guesthouses in the mountains, small hotels/hostels in Shkodër and Tirana (shared rooms)
- Breakfast daily; packed lunch and dinner on the five mountain days
- All transfers, Koman ferry, pack-horse on day 3, cross-border permits
Not included
- Flights to Tirana
- Meals in Tirana and Shkodër other than breakfast
- Drinks (the raki tends to be free)
- Travel insurance (required)
The honest box
What’s basic about this trip
- Guesthouses are simple: shared rooms, shared bathrooms, sometimes patchy hot water and power.
- The Theth–Vusanje day is 21 km and remote. There's no shortcut once you start.
- Mountain roads are rough and transfers are long and bumpy. The scenery helps.
Nothing hidden
Where your money goes
- Guides 30%
- Beds 22%
- Food 15%
- Transport 20%
- Us 13%
Indicative split for this trip. "Us" covers planning, insurance, this website and keeping the lights on.
When
Dates and availability
Pack
Kit list highlights
- Walking boots
- 30–35 L pack
- Waterproof jacket
- Sun hat, SPF 50
- Water capacity 2–3 L
- Swimsuit
- Cash in euro — no ATMs in the mountains
Good to know
Trip FAQs
Is it safe?
Yes. Northern Albania and Montenegro are welcoming, low-crime places to travel, and hospitality to guests is a point of honour in the mountains. The main hazards are sun, distance and rough roads.
Do I need a visa or permit?
EU, UK and Irish passport holders don't need visas for either country. Crossing the border on foot needs a permit, which we arrange — we'll ask for your passport details six weeks ahead.
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Questions about this trip?
Ask about fitness, kit, the huts, the dogs, the weather. We’d rather you asked than guessed.